Having purchased a 1994 Kenwood music system from a Charity shop in 2013 (it was a high end product in its day), I found myself not quite knowing where to plug in what, and how to do this, that and the next thing. I needed a Manual, and after failure with another online 'Manual provider' I found Owner Manuals dot com. Well, I wasn't sure, but it was only $5, and if things didn't work out, I wouldn't have lost much...
But things DID work out. After paying my childrens inheritance money, $4.99, I was sent a Manual for my Kenwood System very quickly. Alas, it was in German, and being Scottish, I could not read it or get my system in order from it...a rapid email to them brought the English Manual in short order, and my retro-system was and IS up and running in it's regulation settings.
I am very grateful to http://www.owner-manuals.com for their quick service and for even having such an obsolete Manual in the first place! If you need a Manual for ANYTHING, try here first. I wouldn't be surprised if I bought a 1928 Marconi radio, and got the user Manual for THAT here too!
Top marks.
John Copeland
Glasgow
Scotland
I was so happy that the owner's manual was available. It is well written and helped me to use the radio/CD player/recorder without problems. Thanks for making it available.
Irene Lambert
Thanks so much for the Owner's manual for my Sony PS - FL1. I had purchased the turntable off of eBay. It came in and looked great. Packed well and appeared to be great. I balanced and aligned the tone are and hooked it up. When trying to play a record the tone are would move to the right place and just before it would drop to play it moved back off the edge of the record before touching down. I searched the net for an answer to this issue. No luck. Then I purchased the owners manual and sure enough there was a place to adjust where the stylus touched down. That adjustment solved the problem and saved me a $35 feet to have the player checked out. The manual is well written and easy to understand. It is a must have for anyone with this front loading Sony turntable.
Text excerpt from page 10 (click to view)
Mounting of cooker hood on wall
1. Mark out where the 4 holes shall be drilled on the wall. Drill in the markings with an �8 mm drill and fit rawl plugs into the holes. Use the template printed on the packaging. 2. Fix the screws (A) (see picture). Leave about 5 mm distance between the screws and the wall. 3. Hook the cooker hood on the screws (A). 4. Remove the grease filter and mount the screws (B) in the two lower holes. Remove the grease filter by pulling it backwards (against the wall) and then downwards. 5. Tighten the screws (A). 6. Mount the grease filter.
A
B
Mounting the cold air valve
Not applicable for recirculation. The cold air valve consists of a damper seat with two valves, which shall be fitted into the hood outlet (see picture). If there is no other form of ventilation to expel air from the kitchen than the hood, the outer end of the valves should be clipped off and removed. Insert a pen or something similar between the valves. These should open up easily now.
A B
C
Fitting the carbon filter
Only applicable for recirculation. The LONG LIFE carbon filter (special accessory) for this hood is fitted instead of the grease filter. The LONG LIFE carbon filter is both a grease and carbon filter for reduction of cooking smells. An opening must be made at the top or front of the cupboard (min. 100 cm²) where the hood is fitted, so the cleaned air can freely circulate back into the kitchen. Use venting grid PNC 391 433 101 (extra equipment)
Mounting the venting kit (see picture)
Extend the duct hose correctly. A duct hose which is too long or has too many bends can reduce cooker hood efficiency by fifty per cent. Shorten the hose if it is too long, and avoid unnecessary bends in it.
C
A complete venting kit is available as an optional extra. The ventilation pipe (A) is pulled over the hood�s evacuation flange (B) and is held firmly in place with a clamp. Make sure the pipe is as straight as possible and does not hinder the movement of the valve flaps. The pipe is connected to the mouth of the duct with the metal flange (C) which is included in the kit.
